Features:

  • Acts and looks like porcelain and ceramic
  • Apply to ceramic, porcelain or fiberglass
  • Made In China
  • Cleans up easily with mineral spirits
Absolutely amazing product! Lots of work, but worth it!

Absolutely amazing! We'd been living with ugly baby blue tile in our bathroom for years, and we just couldn't bring ourselves to bite the bullet for a full bathroom remodel. After a lot of thought, we decided to give this Rustoleum product a try. We read as many reviews, tips, and tricks as we could and here are a few thoughts/comments: (1) Do ALL the prep work. It takes a while, but it's worth it. We did four coats on tile and tub, and it took four kits. (2) Mix the activator really well into the paint and then let it sit for 3-5 minutes. We didn't let our first batch sit and the first 5 minutes or so was like painting with water. (3) Reviewers are not overestimating the smell. Get a good respirator mask (about $30) and open all the windows. I recommend taping over any vents in the room too so the smell doesn't get pumped around the house though the vents. (4) High density foam rollers WILL isintegrate, but it's pretty slow, so just buy extra. I think we went through about 8-10. They work great. (5) This stuff sets fast, so be prepared for a few streaks here and there. You'll do more harm than good if you try to correct too quickly. (6) Be diligent with taping everything up good before painting. This stuff is HARD to get off fixtures if you mess up. Tape well, and you can avoid that problem. (7) We used a small paint pan with liners and used fresh liner and brush with every coat. (8) The sanding step (as part of prepping the surface) is with 400/600 grit paper. You'll feel like you're not even scratching the tile, but I think this step is just to ensure the tile is completely clean (not to remove the shine of the tile). We bought a cheap hand sander, cheap sand paper, and then cut squares and made sheets for the hand sander using adhesive industrial Velcro strips on the back. Worked like a charm! We also laid new vinyl peel and stick tile over the existing flooring (TrafficMaster brand at Home Depot for $30 all in).

Blue Tub Solution!

First let me say, you should absolutely wear a respirator when completing a project with this Tub and Tile epoxy. In addition to using the respirator, you should also open every window you can and run fans. The fumes are very strong- like strong enough to make you lose consciousness. It is also a good idea to have a box of disposable gloves for this project. I used three kits to refinish my tub and surround. My tub was blue and the surround was an off white vinyl sheeting prior to starting this project. Prior to starting, I removed the drain, handles and overflow cover. I scoured the whole tub and surround with Lime-Away and Comet. Then, I hand sanded everything with 200 grit sandpaper and rinsed thoroughly . Once you start application, you have to work fast, and not go back over parts that have already started to dry. I used foam brushes and rollers that were made for epoxy to complete this project. Even using foam applicators which stated they could be used for epoxy, this product started disintegrating the foam. If I use this product again, I will use brushes. I went through about 30 foam brushes while completing this project, and probably could have used more. I applied two full coats and a third touch-up coat to cover the blue. If you put it on too thick, you will end up with bubbles in the finish. Just put on thin, even coats. The epoxy is somewhat self leveling, so if it doesn't look level, just leave it and move on. We did not use the tub for three days after completion. I also kept a bottle of rubbing alcohol and cotton rounds in the bathroom for clean ups. It has been about two months since application, and it has held up well. My tub did not turn out perfect, but it is much better than the blue!

Applied this last winter, very good stuff!

I rolled this onto an old cast-iron tub that was scratched, chipped and rusting. It was so ugly I considered smashing it, throwing the chunks out the window and replacing with a fiberglass tub. That's a huge job! This little can contains just enough epoxy for a nice thick coat that will lay flat and shiny over your old, worn out cast iron. This surface is holding up better than expected after plenty of use and still looks like I just painted it. Bad prep work or physical damage is probably to blame on any bad results. It's very strong paint, but don't paint over soap scum or throw a brick at it! Sand it down really good and hit rust with phosphoric acid. Then use a really strong cleaner and finish with alcohol to remove any residue. Either prepare for this right or replace with a new tub, your choice. Neither's easy, but this is the really cheap option.

Boy am I glad I did

After reading tons of reviews on this product, I decided to purchase this. Boy am I glad I did! This stuff worked wonders on our old 1980's tub. I would always scrub the tub but no matter how hard, the stains wouldn't come out. I've posted a photo of the before and after. Do yourself a favor and buy this and save yourself tons of $!

Do not think that letting the product sit 'longer' than 30 min-1 hour between first and second coats will make things better. I

Definitely follow every step of the directions. Here are my lessons learned: 1. Don't buy the roller that Amazon recommends...do not buy one that has one of the 'foam' style roller parts. Buy a roller that is a harder plastic with the white felty-like part. The foam completely disintegrated on me. The drawback to the more rigid roller is that it makes getting into the curvy parts of the bathtub/sink areas tricky. Use a paint brush for these areas. 2. Do not think that letting the product sit 'longer' than 30 min-1 hour between first and second coats will make things better. I put one coat on some things, let it sit over night, and applied the second coat the next day. The areas that I applied the second coat within the 30min-1 hour range turned out much better. Areas I waited the next day to apply were slightly 'crackly' or have more of a hammered look. My fault! 3. It smells AWFUL. Do not use this in poorly ventilated areas-sounds like duh- but seriously-add a fan to your list of items to have on hand and open windows-blow fan so air goes outward otherwise you could blow dust particles inward which will then stick to all your hard work. 4. Try to let it sit longer than the 3 days if possible and do not color your hair or wash anything with dyes in it if you need to for a while...probably another duh-moment but the paint even after 3 days seems to want to absorb any color that it comes into contact with. I noticed it isn't as sensitive after a while longer. 5. Mentally prepare yourself for a gorgeous white bathroom. I went from a strange pink/brown bathroom to white and I am amazed at how much dirt accumulates and how that awful pink/brown hid so much! Your gonna want to make bathroom cleaning appear on chore lists a bit more frequently to keep it fresh. 6. Also, works amazingly well on wall tiles! I could see this being a great solution for kitchen back splash remodels on a budget as well. 7. Splurge on a new paint brush-don't use a paint brush that you've used previously and may have some sort of residues in it. Get a new paint brush just for this-and, it may sound wasteful but throw it away after-cleaning this stuff is not fun. No regrets. It feels like a whole new bathroom. Check out my before and after pictures. It turned out better than I expected. My entire bathroom remodel consisted of: -Tub and Tile resurfacing kits by RustOlium (I used it on the sink, tile walls, tub, and shower walls which took me 3 boxes (2 coats on everything) and nothing to spare at the end)= about 60 dollars -New roller and rolls (habitat for humanity restore)= 8 dollars -Used old paint brushes-next time would buy new one just for this so I've added it= 8 dollars -I used an aluminum 'lasagna' tray for holding the paint-I buy in bulk at costco so one= 1 dollar? -Lime Away= 10 dollars from Lowes -Tack cloths= 2 dollars from Lowes (one set of cloths is all you should need) -New door handles= 8 dollars from Lowes -White trim paint for door (already had it from previous projects) -Gray paint for walls (already had it from previous projects) -Stick down linoleum tiles from Lowes= 35 dollars -New curtain rod and hooks= 18 dollars from Lowes -New shower head and hose from Amazon with chromeo therapy (light) features=about 27 dollars total -New sink faucet= 35 dollars at Lowes -New shower curtain= Amazon for about 20 dollars-super neat curtain highly recommended Project total time while working full time job= 1 week Total Cost= approx 232 dollars...the finished look...priceless!

Totally worth it if you do the prep. Some tips:

I was skeptical of this product, but WOW. It worked really well on my tile surround - about the best $75 I have spent on a DIY project. A couple of notes. Does it look exactly like tile? No. Does it look awesome? Yes. 1) Do all the prep. All of it. This has been incredibly durable, but I think that's because was meticulous in prep. Along with the more detailed reviews here, I followed this blogpost: http://www.domesticimperfection.com/2013/11/how-to-refinish-outdated-tile/ 2) Tape meticulously. This stuff is runny, so it will find a way under tape. If it dries on something its not supposed to, you can scrape it off with razor blade, but you risk damaging the underlying material. 3) Wear a ventilator mask, not just a dustmask. Oh my god the fumes -- even wearing mine. I got a little dizzy. The fumes seeped throughout the house and into my clothes. Once it was cured, the smell went away. I have this mask, which is just generally awesome: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB 4) You need a million foam rollers. I could cover about 30sq feet before the roller started to melt. As soon as it starts to melt at all, get a new one. 5) Work fast. Once on the wall it gets tacky quickly and drips if you overload, so its easy to get a bad finish. Get everything ready, and then blast through a coat. 6) Caulk can cover a lot of edging sins. This project took less than a day. I would NOT recommend this product if your tile is in bad shape. Mine is only 2 years old and the grout was nearly perfect, so I was only covering ugly and not damage. One can covered about 75 sq ft.

Refinishing life into that old tub!

Preparation is the big part of success with this Tub and Tile refinishing. Repeat the cleaning process three times and really dedicate good time to prepping. Rinse the area to be refinished with water and allow 24 hours to dry before wiping the surface with a tack cloth to pick up residue left behind. Follow the instructions as much as possible! You will need to use a low nap 4 inch roller to spread the epoxy on. You will have to wait two hours before a second coat, this is where I recommend using a new roller cover because the old one becomes gummy and you risk bits of nap being pulled off by the sticky surface as the first coat become sticky. Do not expect a glossy floor model finish but a minimally textured finish which still looks great and in fact safer from slips. My job came out pretty textured and that is because I put 3 coats but still I am very satisfied especially with the added safety from the texture. Also follow the safety instructions for ventilation by using a fan and I would highly recommend a respirator and safety goggles. If it is an old tub like mine and you need to remove the old paint and rust like I had to on the outside, be aware that the old tub paint might have lead in it so while doing work wear the mask and goggles. If any questions contact Rustoleum as recommended on the box. All the best!

Great stuff, pictures included.

I purposely waited a year to review this Rust-Oleum product, to make sure it was worth the time, effort and cost. The short version of my review: It is worth the effort, and I highly recommend it. My husband and I lived too long with a sink that was badly chipped, with certain parts even being melted from my flat iron. After we had both just said "ENOUGH!", I decided to give this Tub & Tile kit a try. I followed the instructions to a T, prepared my surface & removed drain and faucet, and gave it a go. My pictures included speak for themselves. I include pictures of: the state of our sink originally, the sink after 3 coats of the Tub & Tile product, and a final side-by-side comparison, with new faucet and drain. One tip: Another Amazon reviewer said that, after you're finished using this mixture and reseal it back in the can, that it would stay good on the shelf for future touch up use. THAT IS NOT TRUE. This product will solidify within 3 hours of sitting still. You must make a point to agitate the can between each coat, otherwise you will be stuck with a solid can of wasted product. Again, really recommend this product, the instructions are very easy to follow and I was met with no surprises (other than the Amazon reviewer's faulty advice, but that's not Rust-Oleum's problem and thus is not reflected in my review).

Easy to use if you go OCD on prep work and following the process

Oh my goodness, what a project! After reading a million blog posts of brave people going through this before us, we decided to tackle this. Our new house had an old cast iron tub with porcelain coating that had actually been painted before, but there was major rust spots and knicks. We cleaned the tub like crazy with all cleaning agents we could find, especially with Comet. I read that the success of this project is more how well you clean and let it dry. While the tub was drying, we taped around the tub and taped down the floor with paper. Taping down the floor was really helpful because we did manage to spill and get messy. Before painting with this, we touched up knicks and rust spots with the Rust-oleum Touch-Up kit. We bought some foam, tiny rollers made for smooth painting jobs. All the blogs said you have to paint really fast and thick. The consistency after mixing the two cans together is like nail polish. Here are some things we learned when painting. 1. Go fast and keep it thick 2. make sure the foam roller is saturated with paint before you roll, otherwise it sets little air bubbles. 3. the edges of the rollers carry more paint, so they leave paint brush lines. Just make sure to roll over them immediately. 4. after the first layer dries, you can sand out little mistakes. 5. We waited more than 3 days before using the tub. Yo can do it! Just follow the process and don't take any shortcuts.

I worried it wouldn't look good but I'm glad I did it!

I had good luck with this stuff. Great coverage! I learned a few important lessons along the way: 1. A paint brush for the corners did not work for me. I used a foam mini roller with 2 extra rollers and a foam paint brush for the corners. 2. The smell is VERY strong, as others have commented. Use a fan and respirator. 3. After waiting an hour for the first coat to dry, the sides were good but the tub bottom was still wet. I figured out that there just wasn't quite enough air flow getting down inside the tub. I turned my fan around and ran it on low towards the bathtub from the other side of the room, being careful to keep bathroom doors closed and avoid blowing dust onto the paint. Tub bottom dried great then. 4. 400 grit sandpaper did nothing for me. My tub was very glossy and I had to go all of the way down to a 100 grit and then use a 200 to even things out. 5. When the six hours after mixing is up, the material starts to thicken fast and little chunks will begin forming so don't use it after the 6 hours is up. 6. My tub was brown so I needed three coats of the white to cover it completely. None of the old color shows through with the 3 coats. One can was perfect for me to paint three coats on a standard size tub. Anyone wanting to paint a larger tub or a tile surround will need 2 or even 3 cans in my opinion.

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