Features:

  • SHURFLO CLASSIC SERIES STRAINER - Clean, clear economical strainers eliminate unnecessary repairs by keeping debris and other particles out of the pump
  • Screws directly onto the pump head
  • Transparent design shows when it is time to clean the bowl
  • Easy disassembly, cleaning and reassembly
  • Easy Assembly, Keeps Debris Out of Pump, Easy to See When Strainer Needs Cleaning, 50 Mesh Stainless Steel Screen, Twist-On Water Strainer, 1/2 inch NPSM Inlet, 1/2 inch NPSM Outlet
Fixed Faucet Supply Hose Clog Issue

For over a year I've had a really annoying problem with my bathroom sink faucet. There's a little screen on both supply hoses and the hot water side gets gunked up with sediment, causing the pressure to drop drastically. I'm on city water but there must be something in my hot water system that is causing it. So, for a while now, I've had a frustrating routine of cramming myself under the sink, turning off the water, disconnecting the supply hose and washing out the screen. It has been a big pain. I bought this item to try to make it easier to clean out the supply line. I installed it today and it's working perfectly! It caught a bunch of junk when I first turned the water back on and it was easy to empty. I'm glad to have it saving me time and effort!

Strainer does what it's supposed to do.

Strainer does what it's supposed to do. It fit in the suction line for the pump and it does not leak. I could have used the old one if I had found an O-Ring to fit it, but it was leaking and I didn't find an O-Ring so bought this new one.

Ya gotta have a clean one .

While doing our annual dewinterizing of our travel trailer we found that the water was not flowing from the faucets, just a trickle . Upon reading the Shurflo pump manual we realized, well actually my wife did LOL , that the small filter was clogged. So we unscrewed it and cleaned it out of green algae and gunk. Screwed it back on and full pressure was restored. Filter is essential and rather fragile screening. So decided to get a spare to have on hand. First place to look and best price....Amazon . Now we are prepared. Got a Shurflo pump with one of these filters? You can’t get. Water flow if you don’t have a good filter.Small price for piece of mind and a nice shower on a summer day.

Keep those nasty things that can plug up your RV faucets.

A must have for you water pump. Face it we cannot always have a full hookup. This is installed on the intake side of your pump. It protects your pump and faucet screens. The bowl easily comes off by hand, and if the screen gets dirty I use CLR and a toothbrush to clean filter. I always have a toothbruch in my water accessory kit just for cleaning all screens Please do not use a wrench or pliers when installing this hand tighten only trun system on and check for leaks. You need this.

A perfect fit with the Shurflo 2088-554-144 fresh water pump

A perfect fit with the Shurflo 2088-554-144 fresh water pump. Plug and play, just screw it on and your done. it's only a few dollars so don't cheap out and use the old one that's already done its duty, unless you like water leaks when your out camping...LOL

Good strainer

Good strainer. It is small. Edit: After some use in my application, if the filter housing is not screwed on tight enough it may suck air (especially if the strainer is not clean). This air may be why the pump sounds louder or you are getting air in your supply side. No faults, just a condition, FYI. I discovered this after pumping recycled water that may have lint in it.

replaced on my rpod travel trailer

I was surprise how dirty mine was and that it was clogged with bits and pieces of plastic from the RV manufacturer's plumbing installations. I suspect it was mainly from when they drill holes in the fresh water tank. The price was right to just replace the item and I noticed a big difference in my water flow and pressure. The new one looked 10 times clearer than my used one. I've heard from several people that these are notorious from cracking in the winter if you don't get them winterized. You might want to keep an extra on hand.

Perfect fit and replacement.

100% perfect replacement for the screen filter for Shurflo pump #2095-223-254. Arrived lightning fast, simple to replace and awesome value. The clear window will enable you to see how dirty the filter is much better than the old design. Water pressure on the Sea Ray is at least 3x better now. Tip: use a little pipe putty or tape on the threads to ensure it won’t drip later down the road.

Good quality. You will LOL if this is your 1st such product.:)

Build quality is good. You feel it s soon as you hold it in your hands. I am not using this for any Shurflo pump or any other Shurflo product. I just needed an inline pipe strainer and I zeroed in on this product. Some review says direction of flow is not mentioned. Mine has an arrow embossed depicting the flow direction. I will update this review after few weeks of use. A note: The image shown is actual size of the product. So I LOLed when I received this product in hand. My brain had created a perception of the product size by looking at the image. When I received the actual product it was like a baby strainer; a bonsai or a mini-me!!

Complete install guide. Excellent product. Necessary RV upgrade (plus accumulator)

Put this strainer near your inlet to your Shurflo or other brand pump. I DO NOT recommend threading this directly on the pump head, because the pump head is soft thermoplastic, and you are better off following the directions below. Also get an accumulator (Shurflo part, about $44). Together, they make a solid, easy and I think, necessary, addition to your RV plumbing. My suggestions: if your pump is next to your tank, and you have a system that permits this, and has a floor-level outlet on the tank, here is a step-by-step: First phase: Re-plumb from the floor-level outlet of your tank, because it usually has an internal strainer that backs-up garbage in the tank. With the tank empty, look for and REMOVE THE EXISTING TANK STRAINER. It will usually easily come out of the threaded hole your plumbing leaves the tank from. These break and are, for obvious reasons, difficult to clean, backing up an organic sludge, even if you have drained it previously. Do new plumbing. Assuming you have a floor-level tank outlet, 1/2" female thread: Prepare your new plumbing, by building with half of a galvanized union joint, to the end of a 10" plastic nipple, with teflon tape. This leaves an easy joint to hook up the rest of your plumbing later. Run the other end of the plastic nipple into the tank, again, removing any existing tank strainer first. Mount wood to the floor if needed to make the nipple run completely perpendicular to the tank outlet, no cross threading. Use a 1/2" o-ring to help seal the nipple into the tank. Do not overtighten! It's a lot less force than you use with your downstream plumbing fittings. Literally, hand-tight. I found mine crossthreaded easily if overtightened. In my case, I also had a tank on carpet, so I needed wood to level the nipple. Yes, carpeted in the tank area. Use heavy pipe straps (electrical section of hw store) to stabilize the nipple down to the floor. Second phase: Mate the other end of the galvanized union to a 3 to 4" metal nipple with teflon tape, then the other end of the nipple to a galvanized corner T. On mine, shooting off at a 90deg angle, was almost perfect to meet up with the drain hole. It also goes straight up, where you will install another union fitting and an elbow, and the strainer. Finish the floor-level corner T exit with another metal 5" nipple, brass valve, and exit pipe to drain to the outside. Don't add these phase 2 component to the first phase plumbing yet. Just kit everything together, being careful not to disturb the initial 1/2 plastic nipple and union. Although P1 should be mounted solidly down. From the riser part of the corner T, install a short metal nipple and now, a plastic union. I think these are nylon or tough plastic, and used in irrigation. Now you should be able to install, and mount, the phase 2 elbow T/drain, with its fittings, to the floor, solidly, again with wood and straps on the wood if needed to bring it to tank level, and connect it to the first union, the galvanized one. Using a galvanized metal union for the first, has better clearance than the larger plastic kind. Plus, except for the plastic nipple leaving the tank, you want this corner and it's connected pieces, to be galvanized (metal), as it is more rigid. Floor should not flex over the short distance. Use straps to mount Phase 2 to the floor, solidly, both before the elbow, and after to the drain. The half of a plastic union should be sticking straight up. Phase 3 Off the plastic union second part, attach a SCH40 elbow w TT. Use one with a male threaded end, and a female threaded end. Into the female end, screw the Shurflo 255-313 Strainer w TT. This way, there should be about 2-3 inches of clearance between the bottom of the clear strainer basket, and the floor. This makes it easy to remove the strainer basket without having to completely empty the tank. You should have to have about a half-full tank to maintenance the strainer. Add a short plastic nipple to the strainer outlet w TT. Add Phase 3 plumbing to the existing plumbing, being careful to only tighten the plastic union joint, and not stress the Phase 2 plumbing. Use a flexible line (ACE has these for about 5-6$, in 12-16" lengths) 1/2" FIP to 1/2" FIP, connect to the strainer outlet to the pump head. The pump can be sitting on the floor, on it's rubber feet. No telfon tape needed on the flexible hose, as it has rubber cone washers embedded in it, and not a ton of torque (BE CAREFUL with the soft pump head). These very flexible lines also greatly reduce vibration into the plumbing. I found that the Shurflo PUMP HEAD especially, is a crappy kind of thermoplastic. VERY SOFT. Much softer than the Twist-on Strainer. So in order to access the strainer basket and reduce stress on the pump fittings, do not screw strainer directly onto the pump. Outlet of the pump, you are going to use another 1/2 FIP to 1/2 FIP. First, build your accumulator: use another short plastic nipple, on one side of a Shurflo accumulator, the side facing towards the pump if you mounted the accumulator. Screw the nipple into the accumulator with teflon tape first, then mount the accumulator, THEN lastly use the 1/2" to 1/2" flexible hose to hook pump to accumulator. This allows you to easily move the pump around to an ideal location, and also, disconnect when changing things like the pump head pressure switch (when it fails). After the accumulator, continue your regular plumbing. Mount the accumulator with the shrader valve pointing up, if you can, to make sure that water completely drains when winterizing. I had the model with the metal bracket, not the one with the rubber feet.

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