Features:

  • 4 Lb., Tree And Shrub Protect And Feed Granules
  • Twelve Month Insect Protection, Plus Feeding With One Application
  • Is Designed With A Unique Patented Formula
  • Kills Insects Including Japanese Beetle, Emerald Ash Borer, And Destructive Caterpillars
  • Prevents New Infestations, And Provides Annual Nutritional Needs
I think it's working!

We have a big ASH tree! Last year, 2017, I could see the evidence of an Emerald Ash Bore infestation as we had some mid level branches dying and the little "D" shape holes along with damage to the bark in the form of larger holes in two places in the trunk and it took longer for the leaves to show up in the spring. However, the crown of the tree was still looking pretty good so I thought I still might be able to save it. I did a search and found the Bayer Advanced product and ordered a gallon in September 2017 and poured it around the tree although according to the instructions it should be done in early spring and I needed another gallon for the size of this BIG ASH tree. So I ordered another gallon in October of 2017 and poured it around the tree. In the spring of 2018 I ordered two more gallons and poured it around the tree on the first day of spring. Although the product says "12 Month" I wanted to make sure we save the BIG ASH tree and apparently we did. The leaves came in earlier than the last year and looked very healthy. So far so good, I'll be buying more and continue to treat the tree as long as I have too.

Kill Iris borers with Bayer tree and shrub

I went through a trial of this product on my Iris beds. Originally I used Bay Rose and Flower. The active ingredient in this products is Imidacloprid. It is also a systemic acting product, which means the product moves upward through the sap of the plant. Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrup has close to 1% of Imidacloprid, while Bayer Rose and Flower has 1/4 %. I found that Bayer Rose and Flower would not kill iris borers consistently, even though the product was applied exactly as directed. My iris beds after an application of Bayer Tree and Shrub are healthy and vigorous, with a deep green leaves and are grub free. The fertilizer in the product is an added benefit. And you need JUST ONE APPLICATION a year, about the time tulips are done flowering. When the iris grubs infect the iris leaves and move downward to the tubers they ingest the Imidacloprid which prevents them from eating and they die. Iris borers are devastating to Iris plants eating the tubers and causing the remains to become infected. You use this product as a drench from a 2 gallon sprinkling can, and soak the soil around the iris plants thoroughly when you have a few days without rain. I know this is not a garden hint kind of thing. But if you want to get rid of pesky grass in Iris beds, permanently use Bayer grass beater.

Made me a believer!!

I wasn't so sure this product could do as it states, but based on the reviews I decided to give it a try. I have some crepe myrtle bushes that get sickly with yellow leaves every year, and had considered removing them. They were already infected with aphids this year, but I decided to try the Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub concentrate. I mixed it, poured it around the base as instructed, and waited. I am amazed that the bushes look better than they ever have. They have grown significantly, are loaded with blooms, and have zero bugs. The Japanese beatles are really bad this year, but the only ones I have seen around these bushes have been dead. I definitely will continue to use this product in the future, and will try it next on my crabapple trees (which the beatles love).

I wasn't about to let that crap happen again this year

We were having UNBELIEVABLE issues with Japanese beetles in our orchard. If you've ever had a major infestation you know those recommendations about "hand picking" and "knocking them into a bucket of soapy water" is laughably ineffective. As for setting pheromone traps, my neighborhood association threatened to kick me out if I even attempted such a thing. Organic control of these jerks is nigh impossible. Not when the sky is blackening with millions of them. Devouring your grapes. Defoliating your maiden whips of exotic fruit trees. This happened to me their first year in the ground. I tried all kinds of crazy stuff to protect them, from laying cheesecloth over the leaves to sprinkling with Sevin to the abovementioned bucket-knocking. It didn't work at all. Trees died. I wasn't about to let that crap happen again this year. In comes this "landscape formula" soil drench. BUT WAIT you say, WHY ARE YOU PUTTING THIS ON FRUIT TREES? The label plainly states that this extra-concentrated formula is NOT for anything you're intending to eat. Furthermore, they make a special formulation that IS labeled for use on fruit trees. So why would a sane person put this on fruit trees? Why not just use the other stuff? Why? Because the regular fruit/edibles-safe Bayer soil drench doesn't do squat for adult Japanese beetles. The concentration is insufficient for adequate control. Plus, like I said, our orchard is quite young. The trees are just trying desperately to grow up here, which they can't do if their energy factories (leaves) are eaten by vicious beetles every summer. So I used the landscape formula this spring. Drenched the heck out of them with the extra-concentrated formula. (That was after petal fall, of course. Save the bees, people.) None of these trees are old enough to bear fruit anyway. That will take years. But this should prevent the Japanese beetles from eating them while they grow up. I called Bayer and the representative said this is a reasonable action, because the application to harvest interval is one year. A clever person might apply the stuff to trees of bearing age in the fall. Then a year later, when the tree produces fruit (in the fall again, with beetle protection all through the summer but avoiding the most intense concentration around flowering time), you can harvest and eat it. UPDATE! My 2018 soil drench worked "pretty well." We still had some Japanese beetles munch on our orchard leaves, causing definite damage. But they regretted it because they died soon after. It was pretty gratifying watching them croak after a single nibble. We still had intense japanese beetle pressure, but with only a bite apiece, we saved our orchard this year. Going to apply again this year. Trees aren't fruit bearing yet anyway.

I had some BAD scale on a magnolia

I had some BAD scale on a magnolia. Didnt know what was going on until I looked that those little buggers all over the tree. I seriously thought I was going to lose the tree but I used it one fall and the next spring and I hit that scale hard, they havent come back...

Great for Magnolia Scale

If you have Magnolia trees that appear to be dripping sap, that gets all over and attracts wasps, this is the solution. This is a plant food and insecticide in one. I like that it's granular because it contains a strong insecticide to kill the magnolia Scale, and it ends up under the mulch where animals are less likely to come in contact with it. To use this you dig a trench around your tree like the directions suggest and pour the granules in there. Apply in early spring is what the container says but the first time I put it down in the fall. It lasts a year so I suggest putting it down when you notice the problem them reapply early spring to keep things on track. The thing is that once you notice the sap it's too late for that year but by doing the treatment you can get a head start on it being gone for the following season. I hate using insecticides but it was either this or cut the tree down. I use a whole jug on our tree which is a little more than suggested. I've been using it for several years with good success. The only issue I have is that it's tough to open the lid. Last year I had to break into it with pruning sheers so this year I asked my husband to open it. It has a child proof cap that you have to squeeze and hold to open and I think it might be easier to do if you have a bigger hand. Other than that it's easy to use. I bury it deep enough so that my dog does not get it on her in case she goes near that tree. Thanks for reading my review Becky Brooks

Amazing!!!

I just bought this for a second time. I originally bought it at a gardening store, but it was $12 more expensive there. A bunch of my plants were infested with white flies that were bothersome when sitting outside. They were also killing off some of the leaves. I watered all of my plants that were having problems with this once and then have been watering with plain water ever since. It took a few weeks before I noticed the bugs were gone, but it has been 7 months and they have not come back yet! And that's just with using this for one watering. My plants look great and the bugs are no longer flying everywhere in my yard/on the plants. Definitely worth the money. I even used a little less than what was recommended just so I wouldn't go through it as quickly, and it still has worked perfectly.

Imidacloprid at 2.74% will kill Pin Oak gall mites

I have a Pin Oak tree in my yard. For a few years in the late spring and through the summer I would find little ends of branches with 4 or 5 leaves falling out of the tree. Each one of those would have a roughly circular mass from the size of a quarter to the size of a golf ball that was very hard. That was a gall mite egg sac. They will slowly kill an oak tree. Particularly a Pin Oak tree. The local paper here ran a story about the problem. So I bought some of this stuff last year and applied it as directed. It works. This year all those little mass/sacs that fell off the tree weren't hard. They were undeveloped. Which means no more baby mites. It's not cheap. $40-$60 a year for a large Pin Oak tree. But it's worth it. Trees help property values. There's enough in this Gallon jug to do at least 2 full years and nearly all of a third year. It costs around $111.00 but that gets the cost to around $37 a year. Last year when I bought this it was in quart size bottles. I think I paid at least $40 or as much as $60 total for the two I needed. I got the two at a local national hardware place. This year they didn't have it. All they had was some that was about 1/4th the strength for almost as much money. I believe the total Imidacloprid in this gallon just is at 2.74% and that's what you need. The stuff I found at the local store was only .74% I believe. I couldn't find the 2.74 stuff anywhere local so I got on Amazon and found it there. I'm on Amazon Prime so I got it with no shipping in two days. That's pretty hard to beat.

Great product but expensive

Great product, have been purchasing for years and it is keeping my emerald ash bore away from my trees, Using it on maple trees now being attacked by the apple wood bore. Used it on the weeping cherry to get rid of the Japanese beetles. It has worked on everything so far! Update to review this is still a great product but I ordered this on June 27th of 2016 for 30% less than what I am about to reorder for today! What's up with that!

This product really does work!

I live in Oak Park IL, and since 2013 I have been treating a 100" circumference Ash tree infected with the Emerald Ash Borer. My only regret is that I waited too long to start, since the top of the tree was already dying. Nevertheless, the treatment did stop the progression of the infestation. Last fall I had the tree topped, and this spring all the old limbs as well as new growth shoots had large green leaves which have remained so throughout October. They are only now beginning to yellow which is the normal time of year for this to happen. The tree looks healthy now and over the past two years there have been no signs of additional damage. In contrast, the Ash trees in my neighbors yard (which were not treated) are almost dead. Unfortunately, there is the notion out there that nothing can be done but cut these majestic trees down...that it's too expensive to treat them. This notion also seems to be accepted by the Town and Villages who take advice from tree cutting companies that have a vested interest taking these trees down, not keeping them alive. If one looks at the overall cost, the estimate to cut down my Ash tree was $2,200. At $50/year for treatment, I can protect the tree for 44 years. So I'm really at a loss to understand why cutting these trees down is the best solution. In fact, treating these trees would seem to be the best solution for two important reasons: 1. it is cost effective; and 2. it actually results in stopping the spread of the local and national infestation. This is because treatment also kills the next generation of Emerald Ash Borers who have laid their eggs in the treated tree. So treating one tree also helps protect neighboring trees. In short, my advice would be if you have a large Ash tree and you want to keep it, begin treatment before it shows signs of infestation. That way you will preserve the tree's appearance, keep it healthy and don't have to come up with a big chunk of money several years down the line. UPDATE: It has been a year since I posted the above review and my Ash tree continues to remain healthy with a full canopy of deep green leaves and strong new growth. Only now are the leaves beginning to change to fall colors. The neighbors two Ash trees (which weren't treated) were cut down last spring which should decrease the EAB assault on my Ash. Remarkably, it is possible that I have the last Ash tree in Oak Park IL which is a sad situation. I will continue to treat this tree and report it's progress.

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