Features:

  • One Gallon Rust Remover is environmentally-safe water-based product that removes rust in minutes, without scrubbing or sanding
  • Non-toxic, Biodegradable, Non-corrosive, Safe on skin and eyes, No fumes or bad odors, Contains no acids, bases, solvents, or VOCs
  • Requires no special equipment (gloves, protective eyewear, masks) and will not harm unrusted steel or affect plastic, PVC, Viton and most paints
  • Safe for use on; cast iron cookware, grill grates, antiques, tools, auto parts, clocks, sewing machines, toys and more
  • Since Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover is reusable, one gallon de-rusts up to 300 lbs. of steel
  • Contains No Acids
  • Non-Toxic
  • Biodegradable
  • No Fumes
  • Safe on skin
This product was amazing. The bicycle wheels look brand new

I was restoring my dad's old beach cruiser and the wheels were so rusty, I tried to buy new ones. When I took it them to the bicycle shop they said I had to keep them if I was restoring the bike; "you might as well buy a new bike" is what they told me. They were completely brown, so I didn't think there was any way to restore them. But I went on Amazon and found this product. I poured into a plastic container lined with a trash bag and soaked the wheels over night. After soaking overnight, they were already about 60% clean. But thenI took some steel wool and dipped into the liquid to remove the rest of the rust. The rest of the rust just melted off. I barely did any scrubbing. I spent about 20 minutes on each wheel and they were completely shiny! This product was amazing. The bicycle wheels look brand new.

There it Knurling or Threads on pretty much every part which even the vinegar couldn't take ...

I first tried removing rust with vinegar, which took days and lots of scrubbing to get all the rust off parts. Fed up and seeing the results people were getting with Evapo-Rust I decided 20 bucks was worth it and got a whole gallon. The parts I'm cleaning are precision metrology instruments, which can't be sandblasted. There it Knurling or Threads on pretty much every part which even the vinegar couldn't take care of. I sat my parts in the liquid for about 10 hours and it was completely free of rust. It literally took it all the way down into the pitting from the rust leaving nothing left after a quick wirebrush scrub. Simply amazing, and FAST. And it's apparently reusable? Can't beat it.

Way better than hand sanding rust.

Fantastic rust remover. Drop the parts in a container, pour enough of this to cover and let sit a minimum of one day. I'm restoring an old bike that had been stored outside near the beach. All the steel parts were rusted. This stuff did a great job eating the rust. Once the rust was gone, I pulled the parts and rinsed them with clean water. At this point I was able to sand prime and paint. I had initially started sanding the rust by hand, not only was it a long and arduous task, but it was no where near as thorough as the Evapo-rust. There is a minor very mild smell so I recommend using it in the garage or on the porch. I was able to retrieve the cleaned parts from the bath with my bare hands and while it felt a bit slimy there was no ill effects to my hands. Highly recommended product.

I'd give ten stars if I could

I'd give this ten stars if I could. After reading the negative reviews I decided to give it a chance anyway because it's non toxic. I used it on a motorcycle gas tank that was rusty inside (Honda mb5). Filled it up, left it 24hrs and filtered the stuff as I dumped it out and it got a ton of junk. I was satisfied with the results, but you can't really see all that well inside a gas tank opening so the true effect was still unknown to me. Just so happened I have a Honda moped I'm working on at the same time. The engine was siezed hard, and when I pulled it apart the crank shaft was totally rusty. I decided to test the solution on the crank. In the pictures the one of the rusty crank looks like grease. That's only because of the penetrating oil sprayed in to free up the engine. It is solid scaled rust that could not be wire brushed off. I placed in the solution that had previously been used for the motorcycle gas tank overnight..that's right used solution. Today when I checked it I am absolutely amazed the results. I cannot believe someone created a water based non toxic environmentally safe solution that can achieve these results. No I'm not paid, no I didn't get any free product, I am just reviewing because of the fantastic results. Very easy to see in the pictures how deep tge crankshaft was suspended in this liquid and the part cleaned off was by far the worst. 10 stars

Better than I even hoped!

I love my old Toyota Land Cruisers but 30+ years has caused rust in some really inconvenient places. I'm not a fan of those rust converter paints because (1) I doubt they actually stop the rust, and (2) you still have ugly bumpy surfaces. But it's impossible to get a wire wheel or sandpaper into all the books & crannies of the engine accessory brackets, seat brackets, etc. and I don't have access to a sand blaster. What's a guy to do?? So I tried this with a lot of hope but not much faith that it'd work. Not only does it work, IT WORKS GREAT!! The instructions say to leave parts submerged for a few hours. Personally, I soak parts in a big jug of water that's heavy with Dawn detergent for a day or two first, shaking the jug whenever I think of it to knock loose caked-on grease and dirt, flaking paint, wasp nests, whatever. A toothbrush comes in useful here, too. Once the part is reasonably clean and rinsed off, I drop it in as small a container as I can (to save evapo-rust) and pour in the evapo-rust until it's fully submerged. Put a lid on it and leave it alone. It's not instantaneous...learn some patience. Depending on how bad it was you'll start seeing clean bare metal appear within 30 minutes to several hours, but don't get too antsy. Slosh the container around when you think of it to get fresh fluid down into the recesses of the part. Lightly rusted parts will be clean in an hour or three. More heavy rust will take more time. I sometimes will fill an old cheese ball jug with nuts, bolts, screws, brake line fittings, washers, whatever isn't nice enough to reuse on the trucks, and with rolling the jug every so often it can take two days before they're all clean. The more dirt, paint and rust that's on the part the longer it'll take. Also, whatever the reacting chemical is that removes the rust, it does get used up and stop working. For really, really heavy rust that turns the fluid muddy and gross after a couple days soaking, you may need to empty the old stuff, rinse the part and give it a second soak to finish the job. The important thing is: IT WORKS!! Your parts come out bare metal even down in the holes where you could never clean otherwise. It will NOT remove paint that is well adhered, it does not magically replace metal that's corroded away. But for getting steel parts clean of corrosion, it's the bomb. NOTE: it will dull or remove the nice cad or zinc finish on parts, so don't put anything in that you don't want stripped. It should be obvious not to put electrical parts into liquids. So don't. The instructions suggest rinsing parts in water and then dipping into clean evapo-rust to preserve them. That does work, and you do need to do something pretty quickly after stripping the parts because you now have bare steel and humid air touching each other. For things I'm not using immediately I dunk them in clean Evapo-Rust and set them out to dry. They dry just a little sticky but won't rust for a while. Months, if they're stored indoors. Things I want to paint I rinse in very hot water, dry as best I can and lay the parts out to air dry in an air conditioned area (for lower humidity). Paint or coat soon because surface rust loves bare metal.

Best rust remover on the market

The stuff works amazingly well, even compared to old standards like naval jelly or vinegar. It smells much better than those as well, though sometimes the metal coming out of the bucket has a bit of sulphide whiff to it. It's also much safer to handle, even without gloves, though once you near the end of the stock's life the black stuff in the bottom can be a bit difficult to clean off. And the stuff is super forgiving; you can leave items sitting in it for a very long time without damaging the base metal. For me, one gallon de-rusted probably 10 iron planes, the hardware from five transitional planes, dozens of plane irons, a giant batch of chisels, some screwdrivers, an ax and a froe; you'd probably get more life out of it by being a bit better than I was about not leaving stuff in there for days.

Exceeded my expectations. I understand why the reviews are so glowing. Works very well without damaging rubber, plastic or metal

This product works BETTER than I expected. It is not your typical smelly, semi-dangerous acid product. It has very little smell. I used gloves because I didn't believe it would be hand safe (It definitely is). Semi restoring an all original 44 year old motorcycle, I needed something milder than the typical acid products I've used before. Many parts I wanted to de-rust are no longer available and I didn't want to damage irreplaceable parts. I bought the gallon to be certain I could cover some of the parts well in an old plastic kitty litter container I had available. $22 bucks seemed steep, but not for a gallon. Heck 16 oz of Naval Jelly will cost you $8 bucks. This is a gallon and its RE-USABLE. Yes, just gently pour back into the gallon container leaving some sludge behind and you have saved 90% of the product for reuse. Amazing. So does it work? YES - it works better than I expected. The original chain for this motorcycle is replaceable, but I wanted the original. How do I know its the original chain? I bought the bike brand new in 1974. While its been sitting in storage for nearly 20 years, this Trials bike doesn't have 100 hours on it. Yet the chain was CAKED with rust. The links moved, but literally caked with rust on the sides. Soaked the chain in diesel fuel for a few of days shaking it in the container every few hours. Pressure washed & scrubbed all the diesel fuel off. Was much better and links all OK, but into the evaporation-rust it went for about 24 hours, taking it out at the 12 hour mark and scrubbing under water with a stiff brush. Frankly at 12 hours it was fine, but I left it in and it really came out looking new. An overnight soaking in HOT Mobil 1 and this chain is like new. I've gone long here. You won't be disappointed.

A must have for ur work shop.

Amazing stuff here. I went with the Gal size to test and ya I'll be going the 3.5 next time cause I want to use this on everything!!! Haha yup it's that good and worth every penny.

Works For Me!

This worked very well for me--I tossed some moderately rusted c-clamps and garden clippers into a small plastic tub (with a snap-on lid) with the solution, and they came out rust-free*, with just a bit of black "dust" in some areas that needed to be brushed/washed off. (After wiping the tools down with a terry-towel to dry them off and remove any remaining solution, I treated them all with "Ballistol Aerosol Lubricant Cleaner Protectant".) As a bonus tip, I left a handful of neodymium magnets in the bath for a week or two, and a lot of evidently "iron filings" have been attracted to the magnets, and the used solution has cleared up very significantly! (Apparently, the byproduct of the reaction is elemental iron, not some oxide or other compound of iron...) If you like to pick up old tools in so-so condition at yard sales and such, this stuff could be quite an effort-saver, quite a boon! *In fact, I inadvertently left the clamps in the solution for several days, and boy did they come out clean!!)

Amazing stuff!

With a little less than half the container I've totally cleaned 5 vintage axe heads, 3 wrenches, a few punches, and a couple handfuls of wedges for axe handles. This stuff is like magic, 12-24 hours and there's absolutely no rust left after being 100% covered in it. When you remove items they almost look like they have a very light sandblasted finish to them, but you can shine then up with either a wire brush or a wire wheel for a hand drill. It's definitely reusable but I can start to tell the bit that I've been using is losing its potency. But for the cost its worth it not having to spend all the time on a large wire wheel with large items like axe heads, and for small spaces like the inside of adjustable wrenches you can't wire wheel, there's nothing better than this stuff. I will be ordering more, and everyone I've shown is amazed what it does, and have asked me to dunk some of their old rusty tools in as well.

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