• Z-Wave micro switch installs behind an existing wall switch to upgrade it into a Z-Wave switch. Upgrade home automation system while keeping your original switches
  • Wirelessly control your appliances (lights, fans) from an internet-connected smartphone, tablet, or computer. Program Z-Wave relay switch in scenes, groups, and associations. Dynamic scheduling and events from anywhere
  • Utilizes Z-Wave Plus featuring improved wireless range, increased bandwidth, additional RF channels; backward compatible with existing Z-Wave devices; connects to smart home network via Z-Wave Plus or classic hub such as VeraEdge, VeraPlus, Vera3, SmartThings, Homeseer, Wink, Fibaro Home Center 2
  • Acts as a Z-Wave repeater to extend the range of Z-Wave signal up to 100ft; the switch will still work if the module fails
  • Z-Wave hub and neutral wire required. Single Pole, 120-277 VAC, 50/60Hz, Up to 150ft Range, 10,000mA (10A) Maximum Load, 908.42MHz, Slim Design - Dimensions: 1.63" x 1.63" x 0.82"

I was looking for a way to switch ceiling lights on and off during vacations, but I wanted to retain the existing dimmer (all of the available ZWave dimmer switches would change the appearance and the way the dimmer operates). This device provides just the solution I need. I wired it in series ahead of the dimmer, so it's always connected to power and thus remains associated with the VeraEdge hub. In normal use, I keep it set to ON, so the existing dimmer controls the light as it always has. When I go on vacation I set the dimmer switch to ON and then let the VeraEdge hub switch the light on and off at random times.

Best smart switch solution I've found so far. I'm a huge fan on having a regular toggle switch that non-smart home people understand how to use. Just going to comment on some of the things I've seen other reviews mention as issues. Works perfectly with wink, very fast, easy to pair as a generic zwave switch. I followed the instructions which recommended to do an exclusion first, then add the switch. Almost no delay when using the physical toggle switch. The click of the relay is very quiet. It does update wink to the status of the switch, though not instantaneously, takes about 10 seconds. Overall I'm super happy with this product. Will plan on buying a few more in other areas where dimming isn't needed. Hopefully this product lasts a long time. If it fails soon, I'll update this review.

I purchased this Z-Wave Relay Switch almost 2 years ago with the intention to use it in a ceiling fan, which did not have the fan wires routed to the switch. I never got around to installing it for that purpose. However, I wanted to control the light in my shed located in my backyard. I tried several plug-in type switches however, my dad simply could not figure out how to press a button in order to turn off the light when he exited the shed. I would wake up in the night and see the light still on. I then realized that this relay switch could be used along with a mechanical switch me to use it as a z-wave switch as well as using the mechanical switch to turn the lights on and off, without removing my ability to use the z-wave feature. This relay is very small and fit, albeit a snug in between the switch and outlet in a 2 gang box. It wires in easily and worked immediately. Now to get my dad to understand that regardless of the toggle switch position (up/down) and the light on, simply toggling the opposite direction will turn the light off :-P.

I had been trying to find something to automate some of my 3-way circuits in my house built in the 70's. The GE zwave switches with the dummy traveler wire switch on the end wouldn't work because the main hot wire and the neutral were only in the actual light box. Most 3-way switches have the main incoming hot and neutral in one of the two switch boxes to power the smart switches. This did the trick! It was small enough to sit in the light fixture, and I was impressed at how fast the unit responds to the analog switch inputs. Without the faint click, you would never know that the light was automated at all.

I think I have 4 or 5 of these or it's two relay cousin. They are great little devices. They cause your existing switches to act like three way switches in that sometimes up is on, and sometimes down is on. But that's easy enough to get used to. I don't know if they are rated to do this or not, but I am using them mostly in my bathrooms. I have them setup to control the light and the exhaust fan. It's been 5 1/2 months and so far so good.

New construction with absolutely no air gap wall switches in the house - none. I have 3 single circuit and 3 dual circuit Z-wave switches from Enerwave, all are ETL listed. All connected easily to my Wink hub V2. I have had absolutely no issues. In fact of the 15 Z-wave devices installed, these have been rock solid. But remember none of mine are connected to a wall switch. They are connected directly to line, neutral and the load. The wire size 18 AWG is correct for the line and load for the 10 A rating. The 20 AWG wires do not carry the load current as the neutral is connected directly to the load. Also note all my lighting is LED the largest circuit has 13 LED downlights. The only other heavy load is 7 LED bulbs and a bathroom fan.

Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black Absolutely great! The built in wiring leads makes this a simple install. Easily able to fit in my existing gang box with a existing switches. Connected to a SmartThings hub and works perfectly. Only issue I had was the SamsungThings default device handler does not report status changes if the relay is triggered by the manual switch. Contacted Enerwave Tech Support (kudos for their super prompt response and assistance) and they provided a custom device handler. Everything works perfect now and status is properly updated when using the manual switch. (Note you need to cut all power to the relay for a couple of seconds after installing the custom device handler for it to properly initialize)

So I used this as a light switch in a ceiling fan. Wiring it into the cap in line with the pull chain switch. It allows me to remotely operate the lights thru my smartthings hub. The only downside is the main switch must be on. While I can technically use a second one for the fan and eliminate the need for rewiring thru the wall I don't have a need as I keep my fans moving year round with an hour of downtime overnight to rest the unit. It works great and integrates into all things as a z-wave switch. It is a very tight fit so make sure connections are tight and you make room to fit it in the unit.

These work as expect (mostly). These are very handy for lights that do not have a neutral in the switch box, just put them in the light fixture box. Also cheaper to get these for 3/4-way set ups. 1/11/2019 I have 3 of these. I have had them for 2 months. I have had one issue where is was not reporting state to samsung smartthings but it resolved itself in a week. but a GE z-wave switch had the same issue at the same time so I believe it was the smartthings hub. It still executed on/off commands, which is all I used it for. Will update with any more failures.

Worked as expected. It can sometimes get confusing if you use your manual switch, and Z-Wave commands to control the switch. I usually leave the switch in the "On" position, and control it exclusively through SmartThings. You can think of this module as another light switch. If your concerned about the Neutral wire, just check for some white wires that are connected together with a wire nut in the back of the box. If you have a house built after 2005, it's gonna be there, before that is a toss-up. I use the Legrand Adorne switches, which are a little thicker than a standard switch, and this device fit perfectly in the gang box. P.S. to pair, press the program button on the device after you've wired it up, then search for a new device in SmartThings, or whatever Z-Wave hub you use. Don't screw the switch and panel back on before doing this, or you'll annoy yourself and have to take it out again! It shows up as a power outlet, but it works perfectly fine for on/off functionality.