Features:

  • Say Goodbye to Odors – Eliminate your water heat odor problem by removing the rotten egg smell caused by hydrogen sulfide with our advanced powered anode rod.
  • Permanent Corrosion Protection – Designed to replace your 40-80-gallon water heater’s hex head anode rod, it can help defend against any level of water hardness.
  • Energy Efficient Design – By reducing mineral accumulation on the tank it can help improve the water quality while reducing stress on the tank to reduce energy costs.
  • Quick and Easy Installation – We’ve included an easy-to-follow paper and step-by-step online PDF instructions to make installing your anode rod much easier.
  • North American Quality – Manufactured right here in North America, our hot water heater anode rod not only extends the life of your tank but is backed by a 20-year warranty.
Works VERY well. Instructions and tips included in review.

Very easy to install. Works as advertised. You need an impact driver, a 1 1/16" socket to remove the old anode, a 1 3/8" socket to install the Corro-Protec, plumbers tape, metal antioxidant, and a screwdriver or box cutter to clear away insulation. IMPORTANT: Before you start... Turn off the breaker to your water heater and turn off water to your water heater. Remove pressure from the tank using the pressure release valve. Use a bucket to collect the water as it will leak a significant amount. (I ran the hot water in my kitchen sink after cutting off the water to relieve initial pressure) First take the cap off the existing anode. Then you have to cut away insulation until you get to the head of the existing anode. Use your impact driver with the 1 1/16" socket to remove the anode. Wrap the threads on the new anode with the plumbers tape. Make sure to wrap all of the threads four or five layers thick. Insert the Corro-Protec and tighten with the 1 3/8" socket. (I did this one with a ratchet and not the impact driver as I did not want to over tighten) Attach the ground wire to a screw on the cover of your water heater. Squirt metal antioxidant into the female connecter for the Corro-Protec and attach to the metal piece that stick out of the top of the anode. Crimp with pliers once attached. Extra step that helps rid your hot water of that terrible smell.... Before you plug the new anode into an outlet, attach a hose to the bottom valve of your water heater. Run the hose outside and open the valve, draining your water heater. Turn the water back on to your water heater with the bottom valve open and run the water for 5-10 minutes until the water coming out of the hose is clean and clear. Shut the water off again and allow the tank to fully drain. Close the bottom valve. Turn the water back on to the water heater and let the tank fill. Turn the breaker back on. Plug the Corro-Protec into a 110v outlet. (I had to use an extension cord to reach an outlet). Go to each faucet in your house and run it on hot long enough to clear the lines of old water and air pockets. It was difficult getting my fingers in the hole to remove the old anode. So, I wrapped a piece of wire around the anode under the head to pull it out. All said and done this took me about 30 minutes. I came back to the house to check the water about 6 hours later and I couldn't smell a thing! If I begin to smell the water again I will update this review. For now I am extremely pleased with the quick results!

Huge improvement -bad smell is gone!

Our water in our new lake front home in VA that has well water smelled just horrible. We have high iron content and when you used the hot water it was pretty gross rotten egg smell. The hardest part of the instillation is getting out the old annode. I used a power driver and air compressor and it didn't budge. Had to go to a breaker bar and a 3 foot gas pipe as an extension to break it free. I also had to cut the old annode to get it out. It was really long. Not a big deal just knotched it with a rotary tool then bent it in half just be careful you don't drop the lower half back in the tank if you cut it in half to get the old one out. It's been 6 days and the smell is totally gone. My recommendation if your doing this and your not a plumber make sure you have the proper socket a breaker bar and a way to cut the old annode if the ceiling is low in the place your water heater is located. You also may need to brace your water heater so it doesn't twist. I used some fire wood logs and wedged mine against a close wall so as not to damage the pipes when breaking the old annode free. Many good YouTube videos from plumbers available to give you tips on removing your annode. As long as prepare properly for getting the old one out you will be very happy with this item.

Excellent Results, Though Difficult to Install--The Difficulties in Installation Were With the Water Heater, Not the Corro-Protc

We dug a new rural well in March, 2016. Repeated testing showed the water to be clear of any contaminants, including sulphur. However, after several months of use, the hot water in the house developed a very strong sulphuric odor that persisted and became even stronger over time. My husband installed this titanium anode to replace the aluminum anode in our water heater and we have noticed no odor since. The change was immediate. I will say the replacement installment took about five hours. We have a two-year-old Whirlpool electric water heater. My husband expected replacement to be simple. However, he first discovered extra-thick insulation he had to cut through. Next, the old aluminum anode would not come out of the hole: it seemed to have a large anchor attached to the bottom, too large to exit the hole on the top of the water heater. He knocked this chunk off the bottom of the old rod, losing a screwdriver into the water heater in the process. When he removed the old rod it appeared that the outer surface of the rod had melted into a molten glob attached to the bottom. That glob is also still at the bottom of the tank, with the lost screwdriver. He also had to cut out a larger hole in the top of the water heater to accommodate the new titanium rod. Though the exchange was quite an ordeal, the Corro-Protec titanium rod immediately eliminated the sulphur odor in our hot water.

Great replacement anode. No more rotten egg smell.

I switched from a chlorine well treatment system to a peroxide one a few years ago. I started to have a problem with rotten egg smelling water. I read about adding a contact tank, adding more filtration and even spraying water back down the well. I was almost convinced about spraying water back down the well when I came up to a video about this anode rod and looked into it. The problem I was having was only when using the hot water. This anode takes care of that by replacing the magnesium anode that came with the heater. I had to order the two sockets and I already had a breaker bar. I did need the breaker bar to remove the old anode and had to remove it carefully as the push from the breaker bar kept trying to rotate the heater. I found that quick, jerky pushes on the bar loosened the anode with minimal twisting of the tank. I did have to push the tank back to its original position a few times until the anode started to come out without much pressure on the bar. The original anode was long so I had to cut it in order to remove it. I used a vise grip to hold on to the bottom piece and prevent it from falling into the tank. A little bit of teflon tape around the threads of the new anode was all that was needed. I also used the socket to drive it in but only hand tightened the anode. The top of the anode is plastic and I was avoiding breaking it like another buyer mentioned in his post. I did not add peroxide or chlorine to the tank before putting the new anode in. I wanted to see if this step was totally necessary as some have suggested. I plugged the unit in and took one last stinky shower. The last bit of rotten egg smell disappeared the next day. I did have to run the water on all faucets and the other shower but there is no more smell. This little device took care of it. The new anode sticks out above the tank and the old anode was buried under a few inches of insulating foam. I did have to cut and scrape the insulation out and vacuum it before attempting to remove the old anode. The whole process took about 45 minutes from start to finish.

It worked and solved a serious problem for us!

This powered anode rod has made our home livable again! My white clothes were gray, the bathtub was gray/brown and the water smelled awful. It took a lot of reading and research but I finally decided that the problem was the anode rod dissolving in the hot water tank and that this powered rod would work well in it's place. The original rod is supposed to dissolve over a period of years keeping your water heater safe from rust but something about our well water (and maybe the water softener unit we have for the extremely hard water) was making it dissolve and corrode much faster than normal. After buying a new water heater, we noticed the problem got much worse. Gray water would gush out of the hot water faucet turning our antique bath tub an ugly brown that had to be scrubbed off. The plumber said we needed to replace the anode rod with a different kind of metal after just one month of use. That worked a few months before it started all over again. I wrote the company that sells this powered anode rod and he thought it would correct the smell but was afraid it wouldn't fix our gray water. After all my research, we finally decided to try it anyway and after six months with a white bathtub and fresh smelling water, we are very hopeful it will continue for many years. I can't say enough nice things about this item! The company representative wrote me back promptly answering my questions and we received the powered anode rod quickly.

If you are looking at this product, then you have smelly hot water.

If you are looking at this product, then you have smelly hot water. Period. You've searched the internet and found lots of information, but you are unsure how much of it applies to your own situation due to the large numbers of variables involved. Plus, for whatever reason, you are reluctant to call in a professional. Yep, been there, done that, got the t-shirt. My scenario: my sister-in-law called last summer, asking for help with the water heater at her cottage. The cottage is actually a very small, two-bedroom year-round home, probably a bit over a hundred years old. And I should add that her cottage is about 75 miles away from where I live which means the entire process took awhile. The existing water heater had a slight leak. This sucker is certainly old enough to vote, might even be older. No problem. I headed to my local wholesaler and picked up a shiny new Rheem for her. Spent the better part of a day pulling out the old heater, re-working the wiring and the piping a bit and putting in the new one. Filled the heater, turned the power on, cleaned the pipe scuz out of the faucet strainers and called it good. And in retrospect here is where I made a mistake. Took the old heater to a scrapyard and got around $4.00 for it. What I should have done was removed the anode rod from the old unit. I suspect there wasn't one in there at all, but I'll never know. A few weeks later she mentioned her water smelled. Nuts. More background: I have a pole barn with one of those little point-of-service water heaters for the sink. Almost right from the start, I had smelly water out there, but since I was only using the hot water for cleaning, I ignored it. Not that it matters, but the heater is on a timer and it is only on a very few hours a week. But eventually I had enough and pulled it out. The anode rod was almost completely consumed. Ordered another from good ol' Amazon. When it arrived, I thoroughly cleaned out the inside of it with alcohol, put the new rod in and re-connected it. Within days the hot water stunk again. Since this is a family oriented site, let's just say I said "oh drat." Back to the internet. There is mention of aluminum used as an anode, but lots of cautions due to ingestion of the material. I wasn't worried about that since I only use that hot water for cleaning and not cooking. But there are no aluminum rods available for my little heater due to it being a somewhat specialized product. Being the somewhat creative guy I am, I picked up a 1/2" diameter length of aluminum rod from the hardware store, drilled and tapped it for 8-32, stuck it in the heater and ALL water problems have disappeared. Yay me. Back to the sister-in-law's cottage. I read a whole bunch of stuff regarding aluminum vs. magnesium vs. powered-anodes vs. no anode at all. I just did not feel qualified enough to make a decision for her. She wanted to stay away from the aluminum ones as she would be using the hot water for cooking. I started pricing the powered rods and we were looking at $250 to $350. I really hate spending other people's money for them if not absolutely necessary. So I suggested she call a local plumber who may have more experience with the water in her area. Did I mention this is well water? I should have. Anyway, he gave her the usual song-and-dance about how busy he was, but offered to remove the existing rod altogether. He couldn't do it, but he would send his son out. Well, this was almost a disaster. The son apparently spent 3 hours and was unable to remove the rod. No idea why. Remember I'm 75 miles away. OK, so much for that idea. She tried calling a professional and it didn't work. So now it is back to me. By this time, winter has arrived in the mitten-shaped peninsula of Michigan and the cottage was shut down for the duration. Earlier this year I did another search for the problem and this time found the Corro-Protec rod for a much more reasonable price. Asked the sister-in-law if she was willing to try it and she agreed. Ordered the kit and about a month ago went out to install it. I came loaded for bear remembering the son of the trained professional couldn't budge the existing rod. I drained the heater completely, which wasn't necessary for this job, but seems the recommendation now is to put water heaters in shallow pans. So drained and disconnected the heater and moved it out of the way. Set the pan in place, wrestled the heater into it and reconnected. Then tried extracting the existing rod. I have to explain I do have a 3/4" drive socket wrench set with a breaker bar that is a full 39" long, but no way did I need that much reefing force to bust it loose. It came right out, no problem whatsoever. I poured in 4 quarts of peroxide to disinfect the heater, then screwed the new rod in. Refilled the heater, turned it on, purged the lines and called it good. Sister-in-law called last weekend to report she was opening up the cottage and had virtually no water pressure, either hot or cold. Argh! I should have cleaned the faucet strainers. Yesterday I went over there and sure enough the strainers were clogged with pipe scuz. Cleaned them out and all is well. And finally, here is the point: after about a month of sitting there, I am relieved to tell you there are NO odors in the water. I love the product. Of course, we have no way of telling how long the product will last at this point, so stay tuned should something come up in the future. Will this product solve your particular problem? No idea. But it is a more reasonably priced alternative that might be worth exploring.

It works like a charm.. money well spent. If you have smelly water, don't wait.

I bought this over a month ago. We got smelly water after a new expensive hot water heater install. I tried shocking our well, put hydrogen peroxide in our hot water heater and changed a water softener. The water smell was actually getting worse. We had resorted to buying bottled drinking water. I began to research what would cause this and discovered in some situations a magnesium anode can make your water really smell. My Options were limited. I figured I would try the electric anode. In two days the smelly water disappeared. I can smell fresh laundry again, drink my tap water and not come out of a shower smelling like a swamp. When you hook this up, make sure you can see the green light on. A very good ground is essential. I would recommend this unit to anyone. My suggestion to the manufacturer.. make the top nut smaller so when you torque this into your hot water heater, there are no worries of breaking the fixture. You just need to be extremely careful when threading this anode into your water heater...do not over torque. For those of you who can't get you anode out with a breaker bar, try a 3/4" impact wrench.. it will work like a charm. I had a breaker bar with a 6 foot handle trying to remove the old anode and it did not budge. I borrowed a impact wrench and had the old anode out in 20 seconds. July 4th.. Unit is still working fine. Water smells better than 6 months ago.. I have spoken to some professionals and was told this is just snake oil.. When I questioned them, they did mention they haven't tried it. To them, replacing a water heater of adding a system makes more money. If I can get my water heater to last longer than 8 years, that is a plus. The anode we removed from the 6 month old water heater was showing serious loss of material. I will continue to update as time goes on. Happy 4th everyone!

BUY THIS RIGHT NOW - YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE

BUY IT! I DONT TAKE THE TIME TO WRITE REVIEWS BUT ...... I am a judge in rural Southeast Ohio and read the reviews to make better product choices. I had to write this review. The water at my deer camp comes from a hand dug stone lined well circa 1850. The HOT water had black particulate matter in it and smelled horrible. Totally unusable. I doubted this would work. We had tried every thing I could find to try to clear up the water. I shut off the water and drained the tank.(before doing so set gas to pilot on a gas water heater or electric off on an electric hot water heater) I removed the old anode rod. This is the only hard part. I used an impact. If you don't have one see if your local rental place will rent you an electric impact with a 1 and 1/16 socket or use a breaker bar but have a buddy hold the tank or you will turn the tank and damage your plumbing. Pull the old rod out. Pour 4 pints of hydrogen peroxide from the drugstore into the hole where the old rod came from. Install the new powered anode (DONT PLUG IT IN) and fill the tank back up but leave ALL your hot water taps open to allow the peroxide to kill bacteria in all your hot water lines.When all the air has blown out of the tank and you have water flowing from all the taps close the taps. Plug in the unit. MAGIC !!! NO BLACK PARTICULATE AND NO SMELL. I let it sit overnight and tried it in the morning. No smell and no black water. My buddies could not believe it. Me either. As others have said (and I did not believe) this instantly cured the problem. If your cold water smells or is black this may not work but if your hot water has these issues you owe it to your family to try this. I am not a religious person but works like a MIRACLE! Will put a note on my calendar to update this review in 30 days OK it's been 30 days now and the water is just like spring water.

Works as advertised

I had the dreaded hydrogen sulfide (rotten eggs) smell in a brand new water heater. I opted to purchase this instead of periodically replacing the $30 zinc anode every 2-4 years. After installing this part and flushing out the heater the smell dropped noticeably. And more importantly hasn't returned. This was easy to install, however keep in mind that you'll need to supply your own teflon tape. Also be prepared for the difficult job of removing the original anode. It felt like it was installed with an industrial impact wrench. Even with a 24" breaker bar it took two people, one to work the bolt, and the other to keep the water heater from twisting in place.

The hard part was getting the old one out. It was worth the effort!

Before installing this unit we were doing a chlorine shock on our well every two weeks. Since installation, it has now been over three months and still no need to do a chlorine shock. Pretty simple unit to install. The problem was getting the old one out. The heater was in a corner, with pipes all around so it was very difficult to get leverage. Finally the neighbor came over with a industrial pneumatic wrench and that did the trick. Seven months on and we've had to do one shock treatment. Great product. The only thing that is a bit confusing is that the green light is now blinking. I think it was a solid light before. Not sure what it means but the water doesn't smell so it's still working. 9/17 update. Started getting that sulfur smell again. Checked the unit and there is no longer a green light, blinking or not. I pulled the unit out and it looks good, no buildup. Made sure to the ground was good and made sure the heater didn't have an air pocket. Long story short, it's no longer working. I reduced the rating to a 3. The unit works but just didn't last long. I'll try to get in touch with the manufacturer but I definitely will look for other manufacturers if I gotta buy another one. 9/18 Update I visited the manufacturer's website and typed in my info and the problem I was having. Suddenly the chat pops up, an apology for the failure of the transformer and that they would send a new one. Great response I would say. I'll update again once I get the transformer and fingers crossed it works with a new transformer. 10/3 Update New transformer arrived last week and back to solid green light and 5 stars. Great product, great service.

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